The Science Behind Hair Perming

Thursday, November 13, 2014

References

COSMETOLOGY: PERM 1: DEMO, COLD WAVE PERMANENT WAVE. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5FmQhgeLq4

Hairstyling Tips & Techniques : How Do Perms Work? (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v14CPmnggcE

How does a perm work? (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.yalescientific.org/2010/04/everyday-qa-how-does-a-perm-work/

This Day in History - October 08, 1906 - First "Permanent Wave" for Hair Is Demonstrated. (2014, November 14). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.historychannel.com.au/classroom/day-in-history/863/first-permanent-wave- for-hair-is-demonstrated

It's a Long-Term Investment. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://hair.allwomenstalk.com/things-you-need-to-know-about-perms/2/

Making waves: The chemistry of hair perms. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://cenblog.org/just-another-electron-pusher/2011/09/making-waves-the-chemistry-of-hair-perms/

How to Do a Perm Step-by-Step. (2011, August 17). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.ehow.com/how_10073678_perm-stepbystep.html

Everyday Chemistry - The chemistry of perming & rebonding. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://humantouchofchemistry.com/the-chemistry-of-perming-rebonding.htm

Shelf Life and Storage of Salon Products. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.dralisyed.com/2008/05/shelf-life-and-storage-of-salo.html

Pros and Cons of Perming Hair - Read Before You Perm. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.haircaremanual.com/curly-hair/pros-and-cons-of-perming-hair/

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE (AMMONIUM MERCAPTOACETATE). (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/finechem/AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE.htm

Ammonium Thioglycolate. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ammonium-thioglycolate

Google. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=when was perm invented

Everyday Chemistry - The chemistry of perming & rebonding. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://humantouchofchemistry.com/the-chemistry-of-perming-rebonding.htm

Perms. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.thesalon16west.com/hair-salon-orleans-ma-salon-16-perms.html

Pioneers in dictionary publishing since 1819. (n.d.). Retrieved November 14, 2014, from http://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/perm

Saturday, November 8, 2014

5) Interesting Facts About Hair Perming

Hello there everyone!

Today will unfortunately be the last day in our hair perming series... It's going to be sad because these fun posts will be ending, but today's post is really exciting, which isn't such a bad thing :)

Today we will be talking about the interesting and fun facts about hair perming; these facts are things that even I have never heard or known about before...

(http://www.trustedseniorspecialists.com/sneak-a-peek.html)

1) Like I had mentioned in a previous post, the first public showing of a perm-like permanent waving/curling procedure from developed by a German hairdresser named Karl Nessler. He created a mixture of cow urine and water to allow the curls to process to become permanent.

(http://www.germany.travel/en/ms/german-originality/heritage/karl-ludwig-nessler.html)

2) Did you know that "in fact, the person to produce a method for curling hair was Marcel Grateau, who in 1872 invented a pair of crimping tongs, that when heated on a gas flame and applied to the hair, produced a two-dimensional wave, similar to a curling iron" (History Channel, 2014).

(http://www.hji.co.uk/hair/hairdressing-icons-marcel-grat/)

3) Did you know that Karl Nessler conducted his first experiements on his wife, Katharina Laible? And the process took about 6 hours and he had to use about 12 2-pound brass hair roller. The rollers were approx. 212 degrees fahrenheit.

4) AND... after completing his first two experiments or more like attempts, his wife's locks were completely burnt off and her scalp was burnt.

5) When Karl Nessler then moved to America during World War I, he opened a hair styling salon on East 49th Street, and the American women LOVED his perm or permanent wave. By 1927, Nessler, who began going by the surname "Nestle", had salon branches across the US, in Chicago, Detroit, Palm Beach and Philadelphia staffed by some 500 employees.

A Picture of the First "Perm" Attempt

(http://www.historychannel.com.au/classroom/day-in-history/863/first-permanent-wave-%20for-hair-is-demonstrated)

Photo From The First Release of this Procedure

(http://www.miladybeat.com/throwback-thursday-beauty-industry-milestones/)

6) Perms are not as "good to go" as they might seem - Perms can results in the hair being really dry and frizzy, so you won't wake up as perfect as it might seem.

(http://pgbeautyscience.com/perming-hair.php)

7) Here is a great visual of what happens during a perm...

(http://pgbeautyscience.com/perming-hair.php)

8) Did you know that after perming your hair, you cannot wash it for at least 48 hours because the curls haven't settled and therefore, will just fall rather than becoming a successful perm.

(http://www.belgraviacentre.com/blog/a-perm-left-me-with-thin-hair-what-can-you-do/)

Now, I don't know about you; but I thought those facts were pretty interesting! I didn't know anything about those topics and I've and read just about all the perm articles and videos that have ever existed!

Alright my lovely readers; that was the last of it. We have virtually nothing left to talk about, I mean I'm sure some fancy scientist would disagree, but for us; it's enough! XD

So until next time friends,

-Emma

4) The Chemical Science Behind Hair Perming

Hello there everyone!

Today is the day that we get down to the hard facts about what really happens when you perm your hair.

(http://us-marketsuccess.com/Blog/the-cold-hard-facts/)

So, how should we go about this?

I'll begin by explaining the main goal of the chemical process, the steps and chemicals used...

The main goal of hair perming is to penetrate the cortex of the hair shaft to alter the texture of the hair. The cortex of the hair is also home to the moisture and the natural pigment of the hair (melanin) and that is why previously chemically-treated hair is not as viable for perming, because the dyes of hair colour target the cortex and alters the melanin pigment and throughout these treatments, the hair's natural moisture content will also decrease throughout these chemical treatments.

And again, before we start talking about the steps, let's talk about some physical and chemical properties about the perm solution and neutralizer...

Physical; liquid, ammonium thioglycolate has a strong ammonia scent (very alcoholic and very uncomfortable for the nose, irritating)(can be described as a repulsive skunk-like odour), clear colour, molecular mass: 109.15 g/mol
Chemical; exists in a solution of an equilibrium mixture, not combustable (easily), weak acid, reacts to reform disulfide bonds in the hair, concentration up to 15.2% (thioglycolic acid), toxicity: medium-high; can cause respiratory problems, allergies and allergic reactions, skin conditions

Let's go through the steps to perm the hair, shall we?

Step 1 - Consider the factors that will influence the service; temperature of the salon, direction and size of the curl required, hair condition, previous chemical treatments and hair texture. All of these factors can contribute to either a fantastic perming treatments or one that has failed miserably.

Step 2 - Wash the hair using shampoo, it doesn't have to be a specific kind of shampoo, but try to use a moisturizing formula because we are going to be stripping the hair of a lot of its natural moisture. We want to keep the hair as hydrated as possible.

(http://www.sheknows.com/beauty-and-style/articles/813278/salon-etiquette-101-how-to-tip-and-more)

Step 3 - Dry the hair as much as possible with a towel to remove excess moisture from the hair; the hair should be damp.

(http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-towel-dry-hair)

Step 4 - Consider the type of curl your client wants; if they want a tighter curl, use a smaller rod. If they want a looser curl, use a bigger rod. Pick the rod size and start wrapping each section of the hair, allowing all hair to be wrapped up. When finished, check for any strands that were possibly unaccounted for.

(http://www.hairfinder.com/techniques/permrods.htm)

Step 5 - Apply Vaseline around the top of the head (i.e. hair line of neck, sides of head, forehead) to protect the skin from the chemical treatments that will be as follows. Press cotton rolls along the line of Vaseline to protect the skin even further, seeing as through the chemicals can potentially be corrosive to the skin.

(http://www.salonsdirect.com/product/hair/permanent-wave-and-straightening/perm-accessories/foam-wrap-perm-protection-(x2))

Step 6 - Now the chemical treatment begins... Apply the perm solution to the hair, specifically to each curl. Apply enough of the solution to saturate each curl, but not to the point where it is dripping wet.

(http://www.beautyundercover.sg/mens-perm-air-salon/)

WOAH WOAH WOAH... Let's pause for a second....

What exactly is this perm solution that we are speaking of?

Well, the perm solution consists of the chemical I had spoken of previously known as Ammonium Thioglycolate... chemical formula: NH4 + HSCH2COO . It has a pH of approx. 5.5 to 6.5. This formula is placed on the hair and it works by penetrating the cortex of the hair, which holds the shape of the hair and the moisture content. The excess ammonia present in the solution helps the hair to swell so that the reactants can work their way through the layers of the hair and then breach the cortex. This solution also "deprotonates the thioglycolate molecule, enabling it to break open disulfide bridges" (Archived Blogs, 2014). This basically means that the solution breaks the bonds and reforms them to the shape that the curler has prepared for them; they reform slowly as they sit in the rollers. Want to see the chemical reaction for the rebonding process? Well, here you go...

Keratin-S-S-keratin + 2HS-CH₂CO₂NH₄ --> -HO₂CH₂CS-SCH₂CO₂H + 2NH₃ + 2HS-keratin

(Keratin-S-S-keratin are the protein bonds of the hair)

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonium_thioglycolate)

Here is a real great webpage that explains everything you need to know about Ammonium Thioglycolate... http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/finechem/AMMONIUM%20THIOGLYCOLATE.htm

Step 7 - Allow the hair to process while the bonds reform themselves and the hair swells to allow the solution to move deeper into the hair shaft.

(https://www.linkedin.com/today/post/article/20140816165214-190976645-living)

Step 8- After the hair has processed based on the manufacturer's instructions and the hair type of the client, a solution of hydrogen peroxide is placed on the curls to strengthen the hair, after the Ammonium Thioglycolate solution. This can also be known as the oxidation lotion which reconstitutes the disulphide bonds.

(http://www.lissakahayon.com/2013/11/new-hair-new-look.html)

Hydrogen Peroxide Structure

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxY8AL3Sp4Q)

Here is the chemical formula for that reaction...

2Keratin-SH + H₂O₂ --> Keratin-S-S-keratin + 2H₂O

Step 9- After allowing the second solution of Hydrogen Peroxide to process, the curls can be throughly rinsed and dried throughly with a towel. A neutralizer must be applied to each curl and allowed to process based on the manufacturer's instructions. What the neutralizer does is again just reconstitute the new bonds and neutralize the hair's pH levels again, considering that we have just added acid-based products to the hair which have seeped into the hair shaft quite significantly.

And again...

(https://www.linkedin.com/today/post/article/20140816165214-190976645-living)

Step 10- Carefully unwrap the hair from each curler, being careful to not overstretch the hair. Massage the remaining neutralizing solution into your hair and rinse the hair again using lukewarm water. Apply a leave-in conditioner to the hair if desired and allow the hair to dry. Voila; beautiful hair! ... at least from the outside...

(http://different-hairstyles.blogspot.ca/2013/12/most-beautiful-perm-hairstyles-2014.html)

In summary, the perming process of the hair consists of breaking down the hair's protein bonds and the shape/texture of the hair. When this is broken down using the perm salts, also known as Ammonium Thioglycolate, the hair will reform to the rod size that was placed in the hair at the beginning of the treatment. After the hair is process for a while, a Hydrogen Peroxide solution is placed on the hair to reconstitute the new bonds and strengthen the hair. This solution is left to process and finally rinsed out after a certain period of time. After rinsing, a neutralizer is placed on each curl to reconstitute the new bonds once more, but mostly just returning the pH levels of the hair back to a somewhat normal state, or at least as normal as close as they can get back to neutral, after the whole chemical treatment. Finally, a conditioner is placed in the hair, then rinsed out and the hair is dried, left to reveal a very nice new style.

(http://cenblog.org/just-another-electron-pusher/2011/09/making-waves-the-chemistry-of-hair-perms/)

Before I end this post, I want to share with you a really fantastic video of how a perm works; what is the science behind a perm... in summary of course?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v14CPmnggcE

AND I have another video of what the process of a perm looks like; what happens when you go to the salon?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5FmQhgeLq4

OH and by the way; here is a fantastic picture that shows the different kinds of perms available depending on the chemicals used or the pH of the chemicals..

(http://www.hairfinder.com/info/permanent-waves.htm)

So, what are the benefits of all these reactions? You get gorgeous curls or waves; you end up with the hair you have always dreamed of! And not only that, your hair becomes much more versatile because of the more flexible bonds!

As you can see, hair perming is not just a simple aesthetic treatment, there is a lot of scientific knowledge that comes along side the knowledge of giving a perm.

Until next time,

-Emma

3) The Use of Hair Perming

Hello everyone!

Today is another post in the Hair Perming Series, yet a different topic... Today we will be talking about the use of hair perming. What is its purpose? What exactly do we use it for? And can it be used for anything other then on hair? I guess we'll find out together; right here, right now...

The main chemical compound in the hair perming process is the perming salt, chemically-known as ammonium thioglycolate. This compound, along with thioglycolic acid, breaks down disulfide bonds in the cortex of the hair. This cortex gives the hair is naturally texture, and when it is reformed, the texture becomes altered, hence the permanent curling or waving. This compound is used most often in hair perming, considering that it is also known as perm salts. It can also be found in the main materials for the synthesis of PVC stabilizers, down-hole acidizing, corrosion inhibition in the oil field industry, manufacturing of pharmaceuticals, agrochemicals and dyes, hair care products (waxing, hair removal and hair straightening), shrink-resistant treatment of wool, fabric dying and leather processing.

(http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/finechem/AMMONIUM%20THIOGLYCOLATE.htm)

Now, if we consider hair perming only, we can ask ourselves; what are the advantages of perming hair? What are the disadvantages of perming hair?

PROS:

1) Your hair will look better, for the lack of a better word - Getting a perm will make your hair look better in terms of aesthetics. If you have always wanted curly hair, this will be a dream come true and you will have the hair of a Disney Princess.

(http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/disney-princess/picks/results/1190680/which-physical-characteristic)

(http://blog.beautycollection.com/wordpress/tag/disney-princess/)

2) Volume Booster - If you have dull, flat hair, a perm will give you that fluffiness that you have been looking for in your hair. You will not regret the decision to get a perm when you see how much bigger your hair is.

(http://dollhousebeautysalon.com.au/?page_id=1628)

3) Reduced Styling Time - Considering that hair perming permanently curls or waves your hair, you can easily make up a goddess in the morning. Of course, you might need to run your fingers through your hair to tidy it up, but no more waking up at 4 in the morning to curl your hair and perfect your locks.

CONS:

1) Your hair will not be as healthy as before - Whenever any kind of chemical comes in contact with your hair, it will be damaged. But, because we are going deeper into the hair shaft when we perm the hair, your hair will become even more damaged, dry and frizzy. The perming solutions might also have an effect on the health of your scalp and your hair's natural regrowth if placed from root to tip.

(http://www.latebloomerblog.com/some-tell-tale-signs-of-unhealthy-hair/)

2) Your hair will not be able to transition its styles easily - When you get the perm, your hair will not be as flexible with straightening, or re-curling. Once you get the perm, it's best to get used to your new texture.

(http://dignityzine.com/natural-hair/)

3) Your hair will be weaker - When getting a perm, the chemicals will break down the protein bonds and reform to become a different texture. This will cause the hair to get more split ends, higher risk of breakage and less natural moisture.

(http://www.divinecaroline.com/pretty-pack-blog/why-you-should-never-pick-your-split-ends)

The next question we can ask is, how can we store the products used in the perming process?
Well, the first thing we need to know is that the shelf life of permanent wave curl boosters are 6 to 12 months, 6 to 12 months for re-arrangers, and 1 year for the neutralizers. The products should be stored at room temperature, away from heat, direct sunlights and extreme cold. It is not recommended that the products be placed in a refrigerator and never in the freezer. The products should be kept away from windows to rule out excessive sunlight exposure. Some signs of expiration of a product include; product separation, foul odour, loss of product viscosity, build up of viscosity and a rancid odour. The products should always be disposed of properly; i.e. with a chemical waste bin.

Is there potential for harm when perming hair? Yes; there is. There is potential danger to the client, like I mentioned above... There is potential danger to the stylist because the chemicals can be somewhat corrosive and therefore they can burn the stylist's hand(s) or skin in general.

Is there potential for environmental risk? Well, no chemicals are good for the environment and therefore considering that we are using unnatural chemicals, they will always make an impact on the environment. As for disposal, if the chemicals or products, etc, are disposed of improperly, they will damage the environment, such as poisoning animals or soil and plant life. Always dispose of the chemicals properly.

Is there potential for health risk? Again, working with chemicals will always harm your body, even if the reaction doesn't occur quickly. The scalp or general cranial area can be damage directly from the chemical that are placed on the hair during the perming procedure. The chemicals can also seep in to the skin, possibly through the skin on the head or they can absorb into the skin from an airborne perspective.

That's all for today my lovely readers!

Until next time,
-Emma

2) The History of Hair Perming

Hello everyone!

Today's post will be the second in the Hair Perming Series! As you might be able to tell by the title. our post today will be about the history of hair perming. Now you might be saying; well, how far back can permanently waving your hair go? I mean, it's not like it's written in the Bible or something...

Well, you have reason; there is no evidence ladies curling their hair permanently in the Bible... but it can be said that the process of curling hair has been recorded since the times of the Early Egyptian cultures--- 2000 BC and before! There is evidence that Egyptian women would wrap their hair in wooden sticks, cover it in mud and then stayed out in the sun for the mixture to "bake". It is possible that the soil had an alkaline property, which would resemble an alkaline perm. This procedure would have resulted in a rudimentary cohesive set. Throughout Greek and Roman cultures, curly hair was a staple in their fashion, although no perm-like procedures were recorded. As time went on, hairpieces and wigs were commonly used to create elaborate styles and these looks would have been achieved by wrapping the hair onto rods and boiling it in water. After this time period, came the Middle Age (approx. 400 AD to the 15th Century), there seems to be no major evidence of artificial curls. However, as the Renaissance and Baroque period (1610-1715) approached, curls were back in fashion. Hot irons were used generally throughout this period to achieve their curled look. By the beginning of 20th century, a procedure for permanently curling hair was introduced using borax paste, an alkaline substance. This was applied from root to tip and then wrapped on rods and secured with a string. Heat was applied using specially designed irons and that is how the curls were achieved. This method remained in place until well after the Second World War; electricity then came into play to make the method were efficient. In 1905, a German hairdresser named Karl Nessler invented the first method alternative method for curling hair, by creating a mixture of cow urine and water. The first public demonstration of this method took place on October 8 1905, but he had been working on the procedure since 1896. The first alkaline perm was introduced in 1934 by Schwarzkopf Professional, called Alkalacit. This was a hot perm and it didn't exactly give the best result... more of a frizzy texture, rather than luxurious curls.

(http://trenzasmilady.galeon.com/aficiones2096315.html)

The modern 'cold perm' was introduced around 1946, after the Second World War. This was a thioglycolate-based product, which is still used to this day and was/is much kinder to the hair.

(http://www.theshearshacksalon.com/blog/13883711)

The first straightening product was introduced in 1952 by Schwarzkopf Professional, called Glatt.

(http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f112/1950s-1960s-hairstyles-long-hair-74990.html)

Finally, in the 1950s, acid perms were introduced and became what we know to be as "the classic perm". This kind of perm was designed to be closer to the hair and scalp's natural pH levels and were therefore kinder to the hair; almost as if it never happened.

(http://janebovary.hubpages.com/hub/Home-Perms)

As time goes on, the perm is becoming even more healthy and kinder to the hair than ever before, but it is still a chemical reaction, and therefore, still damaging to the hair.

The history of the perm is a lot more interesting than you might have thought, huh?

Until next time,

Emma